Monday, June 22, 2009

Haridwar - The holy city

Haridwar is perhaps the one of the most popular holy city in India. Thousands and thousands of pilgrims keep inundating the city. I had visited Haridvar some 15 years back with my parents and maternal grand parents, and by the look of it, nothing much has changed there. Same shops loaded with devotional CDs, worship paraphernalia and Deity Pictures. And yes, lots of Baishnava Bhojanalaya.

Inevitability of Death causes hundreds of people visit Haridvar everyday for performing last rites for their departed dear ones. Especially in north India, people spread the remains of the body in the Holy Ganga, the river that provides liberation to anyone who takes a dip in her holy water. Everyone knows the origin of Mother Ganga also known as Vishnupadi as it flows from the lotus feet of the Supreme Lord.

The same fact
of life took us to Haridvar. We went to spread my grandmother's remains in the holy water. We reached Friday noon, took a room. We went to the Ghat, the famous Har ki Paudi (Hari's Stairs), took a dip in the freezing cold waters. Then went to the family panda whose family has done rites for our family since last 150-200 years, that covers about 7-8 generations. We then lit a lamp at Kusha Ghat to be kept burning whole night and then offered to Mother Ganga's waters in the wee hours. They say when the stars are still there.

Anyways, the day was very auspicious, Narsimha Caturdasi. After much struggle with my dad and uncle, I convinced them to visit the nearby ISKCON Centre. They were only reluctant because of being exhausted. My dad is also practicing all the rules & regulations of Krishna Consciousness and has been chanting 16 rounds for 2 years now. The centre was a 15 minutes rickshaw ride from Har Ki Paudi. The temple was under construction. When we went up, there were very few devotees. Most had gone for Vyas Puja of His Holiness Navyogendra Swami Maharaj in Jammu. But 4-5 devotees from different parts of India were all coincidently in Haridvar that day. We did Kirtan and heard pastimes of Lord Narsimha and Prahlada. After the Shayan Arotik, the devotees lovingly offered us Mahaprasadam. After that we left for our quarters.
Next morning, 4:30 we left for the Kusha Ghat banks, took the lamp and floated it in the river. I chanted a few rounds there in the calm and serene surroundings. It was very pleasing.

Then at 8:00 AM, we went to Har ki Paudi, spread the remains. There went the last of what we were holding on to the physical existence of my grandmother. Suddenly there was this void. It felt like a dream. Some magic, that a person between had disappeared, gone invisible.









We again came back to Kusha Ghat, did some more rites called *pinda dana etc. Gave a bedding and cow in charity to the Brahmin priest doing the ceremony. After all this we went back to har Ki Paudi, took a bath. It was hot, but the water was again freezing cold.

We were fasting since morning, so afterwards we had a nice filling breakfast. Puri aalo and delectable chutney. Loved it. Yes my taste buds continue to control my mind. But trying to subdue them by Krishna prasadam and chanting.

We then went back to the Family priest place. There we entered the reason for our visit in a
book, that had the same kind of records for previous 7-8 generations.

Afterwards, we packed up and left back for Delhi.

Haridvar is always filled with pilgrims. Many congregation gatherings, many saints giving discourses. But in all that rush, most people i noticed were either seeming to be in the picnic mode, or karma kanda or monists. Having recently been to Mayapur, Haridvar offered an extreme contrast.

May the cooling rays of Sri Harinama Sankirtan Movement inundate this holy city soon.


*Pinda Dana: offering of a gross body to the departed soul. Since the gross body is destroyed, the soul in its subtle body still needs the gross body to enjoy the fruits of the past karma (good or bad). So balls of flour and rice are offered. Then bedding is given in charity to a brahmin, which ultimately gives the departed soul the right to use it in the nether worlds. Also a cow is donated. It is said, that there is a dangerous Vaitarani river, full of blood mucous and bile with crocodiles in it. The living entity has to cross it over. The departed soul then holds on to the tail of the cow and crosses over easily. But sinful souls face a very horrible condition. Hare Krishna!!! Ref to Garuda Purana.

**
ISKCON centre at Bhima Gauda, it is a small preaching centre, looked over by HH Nav Yogendra Swami Maharaja. A big temple is also coming up on the Prabhupada Road to Rishikesh. I guess.

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